On November 1st and 2nd, virtually the entire country decamps to cemeteries across Poland. Day and night, candles and flowers are laid on the graves of the departed. This may sound like a pretty heavy scenario, and not the kind of thing that foreigners might want to investigate. But if you're new to Poland, this is a moment not to be missed. There is a morose side to All Souls and All Saints, but there is also a strong element of magic. Foregoing All Saints would be like travelling to Seville and skipping the famed Easter processions.

As it happens, Krakow is one of the most evocative places in Poland on All Souls. The former Royal Capital has many beautiful old cemeteries, and these come into their own in the first week of November.

Step through the Gothic gateway of Rakowicki Cemetery as night falls and you'll find yourself in a parallel world. Thousands of candles in transparent, coloured vases gather on graves and at the foot of memorials. Priests singing psalms wander the paths, clouds of incense wafting over their shoulders. Fresh flowers adorn every corner. It feels like you're walking through a sort of lagoon of glowing colours. All about, there's a hushed, respectful atmosphere - it's an incredibly dignified tribute to the departed.

Rakowicki makes an especially powerful impact, as the majority of the graves stand up as works of art in their own right. Like Paris's Pere Lachaise, this nineteenth century necropolis holds the tombs of many great historical figures. Mausoleums of illustrious families stand side by side with the tombs of artists, soldiers, philosophers and men of the cloth. Memorials to some of the major dramas in Poland's history - uprisings during the nineteenth century occupation, the 20th century wars, the communist persecution campaigns - have rivers of candles flowing from them by November 2nd.

If you're in Krakow, an inspiring alternative to Rakowicki is the hillside graveyard at Salwator. Again, this beautiful cemetery houses the tombs of many distinguished Poles, and it has a fantastic view over the surrounding valley. To get there, take tram no 1, 2 or 6 to Salwator - the last stop on the line - and walk up the hillside road of ul. Sw. Bronislawy. It's actually walking distance from the Market Square if you enjoy a good stroll. Likewise Rakowicki. Take tram number 2 north to the end of the line and follow the crowds - you won't be alone even if you walk there at three in the morning. Families wander the illuminated paths late into the night, and if you spot an owl or a raven, you can be sure that you've encountered one of the departed souls... Suffice it to say that Poles love Gothic melancholy.

Visitors may well be curious as to where this tradition actually came from. As it goes, the custom of All Saints is now firmly intertwined with the Catholic Church, but it has its roots in pagan traditions. In the historic lands of Eastern Poland there was a custom called 'Dziady' (Forefathers) that fell at this time of year. Poland's most cherished poet, Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855), made this the key feature of his play of the same name. As was the norm with the Church, the Pope endeavoured to absorb the tradition into the Catholic calendar. All Saints and All Souls fall one after the other.

For those with a penchant for the Gothic, don't worry if you're not arriving in Krakow until the following weekend - you haven't entirely missed the boat. The candles burn on for many days after the holiday has passed, so there's still a chance to savour the magic.